Resureksi » Tutorials

Motorola E398 USB Data Cable and Charger Modification

asu — Fri, 11 Jul 2008 07:59:30 +0000

Motorola is difficult mobile phone, when you are trying to replace the charger with non-original one, then the phone will tell you “Invalid Charger”. To avoid this case, this tutorial below is show you how to modification data cable which enable for both for charging or transferring data. So your Motorola data cable will more usefull not for flashing only.

Here is your data cable look alike.

1. Open it up and get all wires out

2. Remove the protection

3. Check out the pin scheme by clicking on the picture

4. Scratch the panel on the back and Solder 22Komh resistor end on pin 2 and the second on the scratched place (ground)

now you have modded your usb cable!

(originally taken from:modmymoto)

Tips for Adobe Photoshop CS3, How to Pick an image resolution (Understanding Image Resolution)

asu — Tue, 08 Jul 2008 12:34:06 +0000

After you have the concept of resampling under your belt, how do you know what size you should be resampling to? How many pixels do you need? Here are your general guidelines:
Photos for your inkjet printer:
Inkjet printers are stochastic printing devices: That is, they use a series of droplets to replicate each pixel in your image, as shown in Figure 2-12. In theory, the optimal image resolution is ƒ1?3 of the printer’s rated resolution.
For example, a printer rated at 720 ppi works best with images at 240 ppi.
1,440 ppi printer, the formula calls for an image resolution of 480 ppi (and that goes for the 2,880 x 1,440 printers, too). However, most folks find that regardless of the printer’s rating, they never need an image resolution higher than 300 ppi.
Web images: Ignore resolution. Ignore the entire Document Size area of the Image Size dialog box. Consider only the image’s pixel dimensions. Determine what area of the Web page the image will occupy and then resize to exactly those pixel dimensions.
Page layout programs and commercial printing: If your image is to be placed into a page layout program’s document and sent to a commercial printing facility, you need to know the line screen frequency (the resolution, so to speak) of the printing press on which the job will be run. Ask the print shop or the person handling the page layout. Your image resolution should be either exactly 1.5 times or exactly twice the line screen frequency. (You shouldn’t notice any difference in the final printed product with either resolution.)
PowerPoint presentations and word processing documents: Generally speaking, 72 ppi is appropriate for images that you place into a presentation or Word document. You should resize to the exact dimensions of the area on the page or slide that the image fills.

Resolution Revelations

asu — Tue, 08 Jul 2008 12:14:44 +0000

In this wonderful world of digital imaging, you see resolution used in four basic ways:
Image resolution: Image resolution is the size of your image’s individual pixels when you print. I go into greater detail about this concept in the upcoming section, “Picking an image resolution.”
Camera resolution: Digital cameras capture each image in a specific number of pixels. Check your camera’s user guide or open one of the images in Photoshop and choose Image? Image Size. Take a look at the number of pixels that your camera records for the width and for the height. Multiply the numbers together, divide by one million, and round off the result. (If you’re in the camera maker’s marketing department, make sure that you round up.) That’s the megapixel (MP) rating for the camera. Use it as a general guideline when shopping. If you create Web graphics or snapshot-size prints, 3 or 4 MP is fine. For large prints, you need at least 6 MP.
Monitor resolution: Monitor resolution determines how many pixels are visible on-screen. Whether you use a Mac or a PC, you set the monitor resolution at the system level (as shown in Figure 2-4). When you use a higher monitor resolution, you get a larger workspace, but each pixel is smaller, which might make some jobs tougher. Experiment to find a monitor resolution that works just right for you.
Mac: Click the blue Apple menu in the upper-left corner of the screen and choose System Preferences. Then click Displays. (Some Apple monitors have a button on the bezel that automatically opens the window for you.)
Windows: Choose Start?Control Panel and then double-click Display. Click the Settings tab to see what monitor resolutions are available.
Printer resolution: Unlike the three preceding terms, printer resolution doesn’t involve pixels. Rather, a printer resolution tells you how many tiny droplets of ink are sprayed on the paper. Remember that it takes several droplets to reproduce a single image pixel — you certainly don’t need an image resolution anywhere close to the printer’s resolution!
(See the following section for more on this.)

How to Make Your Own Passport Photo

asu — Mon, 16 Jun 2008 02:44:55 +0000

Don’t spend money for a terrible passport picture that you’ll be embarrassed to show to strangers all over the world. You can take your own shot, and make great first impressions instead.

Why is it that whenever you have an official photograph taken, you’re made to look like a criminal or terrorist? Sometimes, you don’t have a choice in the matter, such as for your driver’s license (or booking at the county jail). But when it comes to passport photos, you can submit your own picture, and I recommend you do.

There are general requirements for an acceptable photo:

Photographs must be identical and recent (within six months), with a clear full-face and front-view image. They may be in color or black and white.
The photographs must be at least 2″ 2″ (5cm 5cm), exclusive of any white borders. The image size, from the bottom of the chin to the top of the head (including hair), should measure between one inch and one and three-eighth’s inches. There should be at least one half inch between the top of the head and the photograph’s border.
There must be a clear contrast between the background and the image of the subject. The background of the photographs must be white. Grainy photographs cannot be accepted.

Easy enough, right? Now let’s talk about actually taking the picture, because that’s the important part. Here is the equipment you’ll need:

Digital camera with a self-timer or remote release
Tripod or alternative way to position the camera
Two pieces of white foamcore, cardboard, or some other sturdy, reflective surface
A stool or something else to sit on
Inkjet printer with photo paper, preferably with matte surface

You want to avoid that stark, deer-in-the-headlights appearance that’s usually caused by using a single flash in a darkened room. You might still use a flash for your shot, but if so, it should be a fill flash and not the sole source of illumination.

Look for a well-lit area that has a white or light background. You might use a brightly lit room in the house (with lots of light coming through one or more windows) or an outdoor setting, where you can use the side of the house for the background. But you don’t want the sun shining right in your eyes. Diffused light is better.

Position your sitting stool at least five feet away from the background. You don’t want to record much background detail. Instead, you want the background a little out of focus, and distance is the best way to create that effect.

Put the camera on the tripod and point it at the sitting stool. A trick I like to do is to put a lamp on the stool to act as my model while I’m aligning the camera. If you have a helper for this project, that person can serve as your stand-in. Position the camera slightly above eye level of the subject. By doing so, the picture will be more flattering and, if you do use a fill light, the shadows will be cast downward and out of the picture.

For your first test shot, turn off the flash. Let’s see how it looks with natural light only. Turn on the self-timer, have a seat, smile slightly, and hold still until the camera has recorded the image.

How does it look? If one side of your face is too shadowy, then position one of the pieces of white foamcore so it reflects light onto the dark side of your face. Try another exposure and make more adjustments to the reflectors until you get something you like.

Sometimes, you just can’t get enough pop in the image if the room lighting is too flat. In this situation, turn on the fill flash function. If you camera has a control for flash exposure compensation, set it to -1. The goal here is not to have the flash serve as the main light source. Instead, you just want a little additional pop to augment the ambient lighting.

3 Things to Consider When Finding Cheap Web Hosting

asu — Sun, 15 Jun 2008 14:58:00 +0000

Cheap web hosting can be tricky and it definitely takes one with the technical knowledge and experience to be able to judge whether the host is good. More often than not, it is the bad experiences from using cheap web hosting that eventually leads people to lose trust in these low cost endevours and move onto more expensive options, which may not necessarily be better.

Here are few things you should consider when you are looking at a cheap web hosting plan. This should save you from having to go through the things I went through to find the ideal host.

1. Testimonials from existing customers

See if the host has testimonials and check the validity of these testimonials. Many times, the testimonials are from old customers that have already left the host. To find out if that is the case, try visiting the website that accompanies the testimonial and see if it is working. If there is no website, the testimonial is invalid. Find these using the search engines from external sites as those are usually unbiased.

2. Bad Customers Sharing the Same Server

Remember this – bandwidth and diskspace have a limit, no matter how much it seems a web host may have. If you take this fact into account that the host can actually run out of either of these, consider what will happen if another person on the same server abuses this abundance of the two most valuable assets of a web hosting plan. They may do things that get your server blacklisted by the search engines, or cause problems with website loading speeds.

3. Long Term Benefits

Will the web host be able to survive long enough for you to eventually build bonds with them as a loyal customer? When your business has to grow and move forward, will they be able to accomodate with the growth of your company? To gauge, use testimonials to see if they have clients with successful websites that have been with them for more then 2 years.

Formats for digital photos (Tips For Adobe Photoshop CS3)

asu — Sun, 15 Jun 2008 12:13:58 +0000

If you print your images yourself at home or the office, you can stick with the original format or use the PSD Photoshop format. If you send the photos to the local camera shop (or discount store) for printing, stick with JPEG — or, if they accept it, TIFF. Here are the pros and cons of the major formats that you should consider for photos:

PSD: Photoshop’s native file format is great for saving your images with the most flexibility. Because the PSD format supports all of Photoshop’s features, you don’t need to flatten your images — and keeping your layers lets you make changes later. If your file size is very large (4MB or larger), make a TIFF or JPEG copy before printing, flattening all the layers. Don’t send PSD files to the local shop for prints.

TIFF: Although the TIFF file format (as you use it in Photoshop) can save your layers and most other Photoshop features, make sure to choose Layers Flatten Image before sending files out for printing. Layered TIFF files generally are compatible only with programs in the Creative Suite. If you don’t flatten the image prior to saving as TIFF or if you elect to include layers when saving as TIFF, Photoshop presents you with a gentle reminder.

JPG: JPEG, as it’s called, is actually a file-compression scheme rather than a file format, but that’s not important. What is important is that JPEG throws away some of your image data when it saves the file. Save important images in PSD or TIFF and use JPEG only for copies. When should you use JPEG? When sending images to a photo lab that doesn’t accept TIFF files and when sending images (perhaps by e-mail or on CD) to people who don’t have Photoshop. Unlike PSD and TIFF, you can open JPEG images in a Web browser and print from there — and so can Granny, and Cousin Jim, and that overseas soldier you adopted. When saving JPEGs, the lower the Quality setting you choose in the JPEG Options dialog box, the smaller the file but also the more damage to the image. I discuss saving as JPEG in more detail in the sidebar, “Resaving images in the JPEG format.”

PDF: It’s easy to overlook Adobe’s PDF format when talking about photos, but you should consider using this format. Although the local photo lab probably won’t accept it, it’s a great format for sharing your pictures with folks who don’t have Photoshop. Unlike JPEG, your images won’t be degraded when saving as PDF; and like JPEG, just about anyone with a computer can view the files. (Adobe Reader, which you can use with PDFs,
is found on just about every computer now, just like Web browsers for JPEG.) Keep in mind, however, that PDF files are larger than JPEGs.

Large Document Format (PSB): Really, really, really big pictures over 30,000 pixels wide or long or both need to be saved in the PSB file format. Will you ever need this format? Consider that 30,000 pixels at a
photo-quality resolution of 300 ppi is 100 inches long. At a resolution of 85 ppi, more appropriate for a long banner to hang in a hallway, you’re talking about artwork that stretches almost 30 feet! Can your printer do that? If not, you probably don’t need the PSB file format. You could theoretically use a number of other available formats, such as DCS, PNG, and Photoshop Raw, but there’s no real need with the more common and more versatile formats about which you just read.

If you’re working with photos from your digital camera and you want to save them as JPEG but that format isn’t available in the Save As dialog box, convert the image to 8-bit color with Image > Mode > 8-Bits/Channel. If you shot the image in Raw (or TIFF) and need to save as JPEG, you’ll have to convert to 8-bit color because JPEG doesn’t support 16-bit color.

Istilah dan Penjelasan Fitur SETool Box

asu — Fri, 30 May 2008 06:05:07 +0000

Ponsel Sony Ericsson tiba-tiba suka restart?, blink?, atau cuma menyala lampu indikator lowbatt padahal baterai sudah diisi penuh tanpa ada tanda-tanda ponsel mau menyala?. Niscaya hal tersebut adalah kerusakan pada sistem operasi/softwarenya. Maka hal yang perlu dilakukan adalah mengisi ulang firmware ponsel tersebut (Flashing).

Untuk melakukan flashing, ada berbagai macam perangkat lunak yang ada, salah satunya adalah SETool Box. yang akan dibahas disini adalah pemahaman penggunaan SETool Box.

1. Firmware: Software / perangkat lunak yang dibuat oleh vendor (perusahaan pembuat ponsel) untuk mengoperasikan fitur-fitur ponsel, yang terdiri dari beberapa bagian yang lebih kecil.
2. Flashing: Proses memasukkan firmware ke ponsel
3. Patching: Proses memodifikasi sebagian dari firmware dengan mengganti byte-byte data yang sudah ada dengan nilai yg baru, dengan tujuan memanipulasi sistem ponsel untuk mendapatkan hasil yang diinginkan. Misal: fitur baru, menon-aktifkan suatu fitur yang dianggap mengganggu, dan lain sebagainya.
4. FS (File System): Bagian dari firmware yang berfungsi untuk menyimpan file-file settingan/konfigurasi agar ponsel dapat digunakan sebagaimana mestinya, yang sekaligus berfungsi sebagai tempat internal memory/phone memory ponsel.
5. MAIN/FLASH: Bagian utama firmware yang berfungsi sebagai Operating System (OS) ponsel yang mengoperasikan fungsi2 ponsel itu sendiri.
6. Backup: Membuat salinan/copy-an dari data-data/ile-file penting, sebelum melakukan modifikasi terhadap ponsel, agar jika hasilnya tidak sesuai keinginan/tidak memuaskan, maka file-file yang sudah dibackup tadi dapat dikembalikan/di-restore lagi ke ponsel.
7. Restore: Mengembalikan file-file/data-data yang sudah di-backup dengan tujuan mengembalikan keadaan seperti sebelumnya.
8. Upload: Mengcopy file dari komputer ke FS (File System) ponsel.
9. Download: Mengcopy file dari FS (File System) ponsel ke komputer untuk dimodifikasi atau di-backup.
10. Finalize/Finalizing: Tahap terakhir dalam proses full flashing, yaitu proses mengcopy file-file konfigurasi/settingan ponsel yang paling utama, beserta file-file sertifikat Java ke FS (File System) ponsel, agar ponsel dapat digunakan kembali setelah mengalami full flashing.
11. Full flashing: Proses flashing yang dilakukan pada bagian MAIN dan FS ponsel
12. Partial flashing: Proses flashing yang dilakukan hanya pada bagian MAIN saja, atau hanya pada bagian FS saja.
13. Cross flash: Flashing suatu tipe ponsel dengan menggunakan firmware tipe ponsel lain yang memiliki spesifikasi sama dengan ponsel tersebut. Misal: Cross flash K750i dengan firmware W800i.
14. Update firmware: Proses meng-update firmware ponsel dengan firmware yang versinya lebih baru / aktual, dengan tujuan menghilangkan bugs-bugs pada versi firmware sebelumnya.
15. Bugs: Masalah-masalah yang tidak seharusnya terjadi, yang dikarenakan oleh kesalahan firmware ponsel. Sehingga semua ponsel dengan tipe yang sama yang menggunakan versi firmware yang sama, akan mengalami masalah yang sama. Misal: baterai yang tidak dapat di-charge sampai 100% penuh.
16. Customize / Customizing: Modding yang dilakukan pada FS (File System) ponsel dengan tujuan mengkostumisasi tampilan ponsel. Biasanya dilakukan untuk mengganti tampilan icon-icon menu ponsel yang standar dengan tampilan baru yang lebih menarik.
17. db20xx: Jenis chipset yang digunakan pada ponsel.

db2000 (disebut juga marita full) : Z1010,V800,Z800,W900
db2010 (disebut juga marita compact) : J300,K300,K310,K500,K510,K600,K608, K700,S700,K750,W550,W800,W810
db2020 K800,K610,V630,K790,W850
db2012: K320
db2000 + PDA Part: M600,M608,W950,W958,P990

18. CID: Nomor CID menentukan jenis proteksi ponsel yang digunakan oleh Sony Ericsson. CID baru terus dikembangkan dari waktu ke waktu, dengan tujuan untuk mencegah ponsel-ponsel SE di-unlock, di-flash, atau di-utak-atik dengan program-program selain program service resmi SE. CID yang ada sekarang ini adalah : 16, 29, 36, 49, 51, 52.
19. COLOR: BLUE / BROWN / RED Warna-warna ini menentukan jenis ponsel.

BLUE : ponsel diproduksi di pabrik dan tidak pernah diprogram dengan software / GDFS / IMEI
BROWN : ponsel yang digunakan untuk tujuan pengembangan / testing. Bisa dianggap sebagai prototype / beta.
RED : ponsel yang beredar bebas di pasaran.

20. OTP (One Time Programming Memory): yaitu suatu bagian di memory yang dapat diprogram secara permanen (sekali diprogram tidak dapat diubah/dimodifikasi lagi).

21.GDFS (Global Data File System): yaitu non volatile area yang menyimpan parameter-parameter, settingan-settingan dan kalibrasi data (termasuk simlock).

22. CDA: Nomor CDA menentukan varian firmware mana yang harus seharusnya digunakan untuk ponsel tersebut. Nomor CDA ini yang menentukan language pack, branding, bandlock yang mana yang akan diflashkan ke dalam ponsel oleh SEUS (Sony Ericsson Update Service). Contoh: sebuah K750i Generic di Scandinavia menggunakan CDA102337/12, sedangkan K750i yang branded (hanya bisa menggunakan provider Telenor) menggunakan CDA102338/62. Keduanya akan diflash dengan paket bahasa yang sama, akan tetapi yang terakhir hanya bisa menggunakan sim card dari provider Telenor saja (branded).
23. SEUS: Sony Ericsson Update Service. Program resmi buatan Sony Ericsson untuk para pengguna HP Sony Ericsson yang ingin mengupdate firmware nya sendiri via internet tanpa harus membawa ke SESC.
24. SESC: Sony Ericsson Service Center. Gerai service resmi Sony Ericsson.

Split File pake WinRAR

asu — Tue, 27 May 2008 15:01:32 +0000

Kompres file mungkin adalah hal yang wajar dan simple, namun seringkali keterbatasan kapasitas yang ditentukan dalam sebuah forum menjadikan para membernya kesulitan untuk mengaplod file yang ukurannya melebihi kapasitas yang ditentukan oleh forum tersebut.

Berikut ini ada sedikit tutorial sederhana tentang cara kompres file dan sekaligus men-split. silakan ikuti tutorial berikut.

Cara mengirim attachment File dalam beberapa bagian, contoh disini adalah posting dalam forum yang berbasis SMF, mungkin juga tidak ada perbedaan yang mencolok pada bentuk forum-forum lain semisal VBulletin, PhpBB, InvisionBoard, dan sebagainya.

software yang digunakan adalah WINRAR

Pilih file yang akan dipecah menjadi beberapa bagian, lalu klik kanan. maka akan muncul gambar sebagai berikut

kemudian pilih Add to archive, maka akan muncul tampilan seperti ini

Agar kompresi lebih efektif, gunakan Compression method: Best, seperti gambar dibawah ini

pada kolom isian Split to volumes, bytes, isikan berapa jumlah besar kapasitas masing2 file yang akan dipecah menjadi beberapa bagian sesuai yang dikehendaki. Disini ukuran yang dihitung adalah byte, 1 byte=0,001 byte ;1Kb = 1000 bytes; 1Mb = 1.000.000 bytes.

lalu tekan Ok, dan proses kompres serta split akan berjalan

Selanjutnya adalah proses aplod untuk memasukkan ke dalam Forum.
Setelah diklik New Topic atau Reply
maka akan muncul halaman seperti ini

klik Additional Options… maka akan muncul beberapa tambahan, dan ada form bernama Attach:
silahkan browse file yang dimaksud disitu, jika file yang akan dikirim lewat attachment ada lebih dari 1 (satu) file, maka klik (more attachment).

setelah muncul jumlah berapa form yang diinginkan maka silahkan masukkan file yang dikehendaki melalu Browse

setelah lengkap semuanya maka langkah selanjutnya adalah meng-klik Post

setelah beberapa saat, maka….
selamaatt….!! anda telah berhasil melakukan Split file dan sekaligus mengirim posting berupa attachment!!

selamat menikmati